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weft challenge

20 Jan 2008

I have been practising those clasped weft shots again this afternoon, and can report some modest progress. These little pictures are thumbnails and if you click on one you’ll find there is a much larger picture lurking behind it.

Tabby weft shot Outline weft shot Clasped weft outline

The one on the left shows the angle of weft I have been using for the cottolin in the cell ‘filling’ – quite a modest angle, but gives plenty of room: remember that half of the warp is unwoven in any one shot and there are long weft floats on the back, so the take-up is not as much as in a ‘normal’ plain weave.

The middle picture shows an outline shot that goes all the way across. In fact it is the second of two shots as I need to keep my outline consistent with the clasped weft technique which doubles back on itself. The angle is much steeper and the first shot is wibbling into the unwoven blocks.

On the right is a picture of my clasped weft outline which shows I am getting a shallower angle of weft here and — on the left — the yarn is much straighter. I am weaving with the pink shuttle and the red is the yarn which is being pulled back into the shed and as I have adjusted its position I have lost some of the slack. I have been compensating for this by leaving a little more of a loop at the selvedge than I would normally do and that has had a positive effect.

Overall I am enjoying the practice but am not going to get worried about it until I see what the sample looks like finished. If I slacken off the tension on the loom then the cloth starts to look quite comfortable,

Tension off

but only once it is washed will the success or otherwise be really apparent. I am also experimenting with the colour combinations, though restricting myself to yarns I already have. The outline so far is in Debbie Bliss Pure Silk, an addictive yarn if there ever was one. I bought some pinks and blues for my college project so I have a range of colours that is similar to those in the cottolin warp. I’ve been trying cool colours against warm, lighter ones against darker ones, and also matching light with light etc.

A few sections I remembered to photograph before winding on:

Colours Colours Colours

6 Comments leave one →
  1. 21 Jan 2008 3:08 pm

    Good photos Cally. I tried this technique awhile back for a design board, but that was the only time. I really like the effect you’re getting here though. I’m going to have to keep this in mind for the near future!

  2. 22 Jan 2008 11:27 pm

    Hi! I just sent an email to everyone at work and they said you had already left…yikes! And of course, even though you gave me your email address I can’t find it – can you send it so we can catch up??
    Speak soon!

  3. 23 Jan 2008 10:27 pm

    I really like how the clasped weft is adding that extra colour richness to your waffle weave. Its real beauty will come out when you wash it..when those little indentations come alive.

  4. 25 Jan 2008 12:55 pm

    Please post some recent pics, if you have some. I begin the Clasped Weft (aka The Kaz Virus) this weekend and would love some pointers!
    Thanks!

  5. 25 Jan 2008 7:01 pm

    Hi I was directed to your blog from Kaz Madigans blog. I love your colours and the clasped weft in the eccentric weft is really exciting. I look forward to seeing the finished piece.

    Alison

  6. 25 Jan 2008 7:28 pm

    This is developing beautifully, and when I look at the pictures I have an urge to touch this fabric.. There’s something very enticing about it. Maybe it’s the qualities of the Debbie Bliss yarn, whenever I have encountered Debbie Bliss yarns on sale there is an almighty battle of will power to get out of the shop without buying up their stock!!

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